Like the Greek god Janus, the small Irish market town of Killorglin presents two faces to the world. One facet is the uncommon profusion of pubs along the main streets that stay open late during the traditional, folkloric summer Puck Fair, the scene of legendary bouts of drunkenness involving visitors and local revellers, eating food off a slateplate.

Then there’s the genteel facade. The countryside around Killarney is amply populated with well-heeled Dubliners attracted by the legendary fame of the Killarney area landscape, for centuries held to embody the romantic ideal, and this society supports Killorglin’s reputation for fine food and dining. While the social context is propitious for the prosperity of Sol y Sombra, its owners have gone far beyond the obvious in creating a venue for dining or snacking on tapas and for enjoying Spanish wines. The Killorglin tapas restaurant appeals to the broadest spectrum of clients, and this is the true key to its success.

Outstanding and authentic tapas in Kerry

The spacious setting in a handsomely refurbished old church facilitates mixing families and intimate groups. It is hard to say whether the decorators intended the suggestion that consumption is Ireland’s new religion, but the bar design and dramatic table placements could be seen as favoring this line of speculation. As is practical outside of Spanish towns and cities, the tapas are served as "raciones", more substantial plates or portions that are large enough to share. Many dishes, including the meat balls, sautéed mushrooms and aged Manchego cheese, would be judged top class in Spain, and even the less outstanding compare quite favorably to what would often be found there. In light of the poor track record of tapas bars and restaurants around the world and the obstacles to producing Spanish cuisine in Ireland, this must be accounted as no mean feat.

Well selected Spanish wines at keen prices

But admirable and authentic as the food is, it is the Sol y Sombra wine list that truly stands out in an Irish setting. Over forty references are included, but it is the quality of the selections that makes the difference, and quite a few are exclusive imports. The choices represent a regional sensibility focused on the traditional tastes and habits of central Spain, and what is important is that they reflect a definite criteria.

The greatest strength is in the more traditional areas, Rioja and Ribera del Duero for reds, Rueda for whites. As these are among Spain’s most prestigious denominations, many clients will not have had the chance to have enjoyed good examples of these wines at a reasonable price. Just as important, emerging regions like Toro, Somontano, Jumilla and Castilla are included for the outstanding value they represent.

Irish clients say "Show me the money."

Clients order whatever they want, are served promptly, and then stay or move on as the mood suits them. The resulting high table turnover and reduced service costs make it possible to offer the wines at a low mark-up. Good prices, good selection and outstanding wines sounds like very a very un-Irish notion, but the result is a booming business. The world is changing, and Ireland along with it wants to move on but needs to first clear out a lot of dead wood, a description that might fit the Dublin-based Licensed Vintners’ Association with its protective craft guild approach.

The chief strategy of this powerful group is to use its considerable lobbying might to maintain at all costs a hitherto profitable status quo: high prices, poor selections, dreadful wines, and blame it all on the costly excise tax. Innovative proprietors like those of Sol y Sombra in Killorglin are showing how to deliver the value that clients are increasingly demanding. Some pubs and restaurants will no doubt learn and prosper, while others may founder as the Greek god of entrances and exits, who has seen it all before, looks on impassively.